Lipstick Plant Care (Aeschynanthus)
Last Updated: March 2026
TL;DR
The lipstick plant gets its name from the bright red tubular flowers that emerge from dark calyxes — like lipstick tubes. It's a trailing epiphyte that looks stunning in a hanging basket. The keys to success: bright indirect light for blooming, airy well-draining soil, moderate humidity, and a cool winter rest to trigger flower buds.
| Factor | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Botanical Name | Aeschynanthus radicans (and related species) |
| Light | Bright indirect — essential for blooming |
| Watering | When top 1 inch of soil is dry; reduce in winter |
| Humidity | 50-60% — moderate to high |
| Temperature | 65-80°F (18-27°C); cool rest period in winter |
| Soil | Light, airy mix — orchid bark, perlite, and peat |
| Toxicity | Non-toxic to cats and dogs |
What Is a Lipstick Plant?
Lipstick plants (Aeschynanthus) are tropical epiphytes from Southeast Asia that naturally grow perched on tree branches in humid rainforests. The common name comes from their remarkable flowers: bright red tubes that emerge from dark, tubular calyxes, looking exactly like miniature lipstick tubes extending from their cases.
Several varieties are popular in cultivation. The standard Aeschynanthus radicans has glossy green leaves and classic red flowers. The Black Pagoda (A. longicaulis) features mottled leaf patterns and orange-green flowers. The Twistedor "Rasta" variety has uniquely curled leaves that spiral along the vine, creating a textural showpiece even without flowers.
Light: The Bloom Trigger
Bright indirect light is the single most important factor for getting lipstick plants to bloom. In their natural habitat, they grow in the dappled canopy light of tropical forests — bright but never in harsh direct sun.
An east-facing window is ideal: consistent morning light without the intensity of afternoon sun. South or west windows work if filtered through a sheer curtain. If the plant produces lush foliage but no flowers, it almost certainly needs more light.
Black pagoda lipstick plant care is slightly more forgiving with light — this variety tolerates medium light better than the red-flowering standard, though brighter conditions still produce better results. For guidance on light levels, see our lighting guide.
Watering and Soil
As epiphytes, lipstick plants are accustomed to quick-draining conditions — their roots grab onto tree bark in nature, never sitting in waterlogged soil. This means the potting mix matters as much as the watering frequency.
Use a light, chunky mix: roughly equal parts orchid bark, perlite, and peat moss. Standard potting soil is too dense and water-retentive. In this airy mix, water when the top inch feels dry — typically every 5-7 days in summer, every 10-14 days in winter.
Humidity matters too. At 50-60%, the plant thrives. Below 40%, leaf tips brown and buds may drop before opening. A pebble tray beneath the hanging basket or occasional misting helps — though for the twisted lipstick plant variety, avoid misting directly as water can pool in the curled leaves.
Getting Your Lipstick Plant to Flower
Beyond bright light, lipstick plants benefit from a cool rest period in winter to trigger flower bud development. Reduce temperatures to 60-65°F for 4-6 weeks, cut back watering, and stop fertilizing. This mimics the cooler dry season in their native habitat.
When you resume warmth and regular watering in spring, the plant responds with a flush of buds. Feed monthly during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer — or better, one formulated for blooming plants (higher phosphorus ratio like 10-30-20).
Deadhead spent flowers by pinching off the faded calyx and stem. This keeps energy directed toward new growth and may encourage additional bloom cycles throughout summer and fall.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- ✗Using heavy potting soil. Lipstick plants are epiphytes — their roots need air. Dense, water-retentive soil causes root rot. Use an orchid-type mix.
- ✗Keeping in low light and expecting flowers. Bright indirect light is non-negotiable for blooming. No light = no flowers, period. Foliage may grow fine, but blooms won't appear.
- ✗Skipping the winter rest. Without a cool period, lipstick plants often refuse to set buds for the next season. Even a few degrees cooler helps.
- ✗Misting twisted/curly varieties excessively. Water trapped in the curled leaves can encourage fungal growth. Use a humidifier or pebble tray instead.
- ✗Not pruning leggy vines. After blooming, trim back long stems by a third to encourage bushier growth and more flowering points for the next cycle.
Related Resources
Frequently Asked Questions
Lipstick plant care requires bright indirect light, moderate humidity (50%+), and watering when the top inch of soil dries out. These are epiphytic plants that prefer airy, well-draining soil. Provide a hanging basket for the cascading vines, and ensure bright light to encourage the tube-shaped flowers.
Bright indirect light is the most important factor for blooming. Lipstick plants also need a brief cool period (60-65°F for 4-6 weeks in winter) to set buds. Feed monthly with a bloom-boosting fertilizer (higher phosphorus) during the growing season. Insufficient light is the #1 reason lipstick plants refuse to flower.
The Black Pagoda (Aeschynanthus longicaulis) has distinctively mottled leaves with dark patterns on top and purple undersides. Care is identical to other lipstick plants: bright indirect light, moderate humidity, and well-draining soil. It's slightly more tolerant of lower light than the standard red variety.
The twisted or curly lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus 'Rasta') has uniquely curled, waxy leaves that spiral along the vine. Care is the same as standard lipstick plants, but the curled leaves trap moisture more easily — avoid misting directly and ensure good air circulation to prevent fungal issues.
Leaf drop in lipstick plants is usually caused by cold drafts, overwatering, or underwatering. Check soil moisture — it should be moist but not soggy. Avoid placing near cold windows in winter. If the soil stays wet too long, switch to a lighter, more airy potting mix with extra perlite or bark.
Yes, lipstick plants are easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Take 4-6 inch cuttings from non-flowering stems, remove the bottom leaves, and place in moist perlite or a mix of peat and perlite. Keep warm (70-75°F) and humid. Roots develop in 4-6 weeks.
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